One
of the
most important Phrygian sites in Anatolia are to be found in the provinces
of Ankara, Eskisehir and Afyon. Yassihoyuk (Gordion) was the capital of
Phrygia and the place were Alexander the Great cut the Gordion Knot to
gain the key to Asia. The tumulus of King Midas, who turned whatever he
touched to gold, can be visited here. Nearby, the remains of the ancient
city Gordion, still under excavation, and a small museum are worth a quick
tour. Off the same Ankara-Eskisehir road is Ballihisar (Pessinus), an important
Phrygian religious cult center. The most important remains are those of
a temple to Cybele, the mother goddess whose worship was at the heart of
the Phrygian culture. The small open air museum has some interesting sculptures
and tombstones. At Midas Sehri two enormous facades cut into a rocky promontory
once held cult statues for the worship of Cybele in their niches. Throughout
the area rock tombs - cave like openings - pierce the sand colored stone.
A recently discovered underground passage leads from the site to the valley
below. Aslantas and Aslankaya were both centers of cult worship in Phrygian
times.
The
former, 34 km north of Afyon, has two monumental lion reliefs; the latter,
52 km from Afyon, comprises a temple and a lion relief. Other Phrygian
monuments can be explored at Doganlikale, Kumbet and Deveboynu. Eskisehir
was founded in the first millennium B.C. on the banks of the Porsuk River
by the Phrygians. Significant architectural monuments include the 13th
century Alaeddin Mosque and the 16th century Kursunlu Complex. All three
of the city's museums are worth visiting: the Archaeological Museum has
Phrygian objects and sculptures from the area; the Ottoman House Museum,
a fine example of 19th century domestic architecture, houses a collection
of local ethnographical items; and the Ataturk Culture Museum has a photographic
exhibition of Ataturk's life, a number of personal effects and a display
of items made of meerschaum. The world's best meerschaum, a soft white
stone, comes from mines in the area surrounding Eskisehir. Pipes and other
objects can be purchased in the town's souvenir shops. A spring fed lake,
Sakaryabasi, surrounded by beautiful parkland, draws many visitors who
want to enjoy the fresh air and eat in one of the fresh fish restaurants.
Sivrihisar's
charm derives from its many typical Ottoman houses which imbue the town
with a faded elegance. The 13th century Ulu Mosque, formerly a caravansary,
and the Alemsah Mausoleum are very interesting and worth a visit. Connoisseurs
of carpets will know that kilims from Sivrihisar are particularly prized.
On the hillside above Seyyit Battal Gazi stands the imposing 13th
century
mosque and tomb complex built in memory of the warrior of Islam, Seyyit
Battal. Yunus Emre Koyu (Sarikoy) is the burial place of Yunus Emre, the
great 13th century poet. His poetry lives today, its message of love and
humanity as relevant as ever. Commemorative celebrations are held in the
town every May. In addition to his grave, visitors can see a small museum
dedicated to his life and works.