CENTRAL ANATOLIA
ANKARA (Ancyra)
Anatolian
plateau in the Central Region, ochre hued, cleft by ravines and dominated
by
volcanic peaks, forms the heartland of Turkey. Covered with wheat fields
and outlined with ranks of poplars the boldly contoured steppe has a solitary
majesty. This plateau was one of the cradles of human civilization. At
Catalhoyuk remains of settlements from as early as the eighth millennium
B.C. have been unearthed. The homeland of many people and the historic
battleground of East and West, here the Hattis, Hittites, Phrygians, Galatians,
Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans all fought for their sovereignty
and established their rule. In the 11th century the migrating Turks from
the east made the plateau their own.
During its turbulent history Central Anatolia has endured invasion by great
conquerors such as Alexander the Great and Tamerlane. In the course of
ten millennia of habitation the denizens of the area have reflected in
their art - from the vigorous paintings of Catalhoyuk to the confident
lines of Seljuk architecture, to more recently, the impressive modern form
of Ataturk's Mausoleum - the dramatic contours of the surrounding landscape.
The seat of Turkey's government in the strategic heart of central Anatolia,
Ankara is the city selected by Mustafa
Kemal Ataturk, the republic's founder, to house the capital of
the newly politically defined country. 
Though
thoroughly modern in appearance Ankara's history and that of the surrounding
area dates back to the Bronze Age and the Hatti civilization. In the second
millennium B.C. the Hittites followed as lords of the land and were succeeded
in turn by the Phrygians, Lydians and Persians. In the third century B.C.,
the Galatians, a Celtic race, made Ankara their capital. It was then known
as Ancyra, meaning anchor. The Romans and then the Byzantines held this
strategic expanse of land until 1073 when the Seljuk Turks commanded by
Alpaslan conquered it. Just over three centuries later in 1402, the city,
then but a small outpost, passed into the hands of the Ottomans led by
Beyazit 1. After the first World War, Ankara assumed a prominent position
at the center of Ataturk's national existence, and the War of Independence
that liberated the Turkish homeland from the domination of foreign powers.
On the 13th of October, 1923, Ankara was declared the capital of the new
Republic of Turkey. Dominating the modern part of the city, much of it
constructed since Ankara's rise to prominence, is the 
imposing
limestone Anitkabir, the mausoleum
of Kemal Ataturk. Completed in 1953, this fusion of ancient and modern
architectural concepts testifies to the power and grace of Turkish architecture.
A museum at Anitkabir displays some of Ataturk's personal items and documents.
His house in Cankaya, next to the Presidential Palace, is open on Sunday
afternoons. The oldest parts of the city surround the ancient hisar or
citadel. Within the walls, the 12th century Alaeddin Mosque although much
rebuilt by the Ottomans, still boasts fine Seljuk woodwork. Many interesting
traditional Turkish houses have been restored in the area, and some have
found new life as art galleries or attractive restaurants serving local
dishes. Close to the gate, Hisar Kapisi, the beautifully restored bedestan
(covered bazaar), houses the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations
with its priceless collection of Paleolithic,
Neolithic, Hatti, Hittite, Phrygian, Urartian and Roman artifacts. 
It
is open every day except Monday. Outside the citadel the 13th century Arsianhane
Mosque and the 14th century Ahi Elvan Mosque are worth visiting. The legacy
of Roman times - the third century A.D. public baths, the fourth century
Julian Column and the second century Corinthian style, Temple of Augustus
- is all located in an area below the citadel, near Ulus Meydani (Nation
Square). The sole surviving "Political Testament of Augustus", a statement
detailing the achievements of the Emperor Augustus, remains inscribed on
the wall of his temple in. At one time every temple dedicated to him throughout
the Roman Empire bore this document; this is the only complete copy in
existence today. In the fifth century the Byzantines converted the temple
into a church. Near the citadel excavations of a Roman theater continue.
In the same vicinity stands the 15th century mosque and mausoleum of Haci
Bayram. From Ulus Meydani, with its equestrian statue of Ataturk, continue
down Ataturk Boulevard to the Ethnographic
Museum which houses magnificent Seljuk doors of carved wood, and other
artifacts of daily life. Nearby the Sculpture and Painting Museum illustrates
the history of the Turkish fine arts. The biggest mosque in Ankara graces
the Kocatepe quarter. Kocatepe Mosque 
was
built between 1976 and 1987, and is in the Ottoman architectural style.
Ankara has an active artistic and cultural life with- world class performances
of ballet, theater, opera and folk dancing. The city is especially well
known for its Philharmonic Orchestra which attracts a loyal following.
Ankara hosts two international festivals in April: "The Arts and Music
Festival", 
and
the world-famous "April 23rd International Children's Festival". Visitors
to the city usually like to browse through the old shops in Cikrikcilar
Yokusu near Ulus. On the street of coppersmiths, Bakircilar Carsisi,
you can find many interesting old and new items, not only of copper but
jewelry, carpets, costumes, antiquities and embroidery. A walk up the hill
to the Citadel Gate takes you past many interesting stalls and vendors
selling spices, dried fruits, nuts and all manner of produce. Modern shopping
areas are mostly found in Kizilay, on
Tunali Hilmi Avenue and in the recently completed Atakule
Tower in Cankaya. The top of Atakule, at 125 meters, offers a magnificent
view over the whole city. Its excellent revolving restaurant allows you
to enjoy the complete view in a leisurely fashion. In the new Karum shopping
mall, in Kavaklidere, some of Turkey's most chic clothing stores
tempt the passer-by.
